Fun at the market(s)

Today we wanted to head back to the Masaya market because we didn’t get to spend much time there last time. We wanted to slowly look around and see if there was other cool stuff to blow money on. Hahaha. We decided to be adventurous (aka cheap) and take the local bus to Masaya from Granada. The bus station was only a few blocks from our hotel. “Bus station” = muddy parking lot. There was a guy screaming, “MASAYA MASAYA MASAYA!!!” over and over so we kinda figured we were in the right spot. We got on the bus and just sat there for like 30 minutes while the MASAYA MASAYA guy tried to round up more people. The local buses are old American school buses from the 70s. They are huge pieces of crap complete with grinding gears and ripped seats. They still had the English rules of the bus sticker all surrounded in sparkly Jesus and Mary stickers. I could also see the ground passing underneath my feet; not that we were going that fast. We maybe hit 25 mph tops and the road to Masaya is a highway. In town, 5 mph and they would just randomly stop and sit there for no apparent reason. They also stop for every Pedro, Steve, or Maria who happens to raise a finger. I think they’d even stop to pick up a dog if it looked at the driver and had 9 cordobas. This bus ride, maybe 15 minutes by taxi, took 1.5 hours. No wonder it only costs 40 cents. We probably stopped 40 times. Coraleigh wanted me to add that she thought it was amazing when we stopped next to some sketchy hospital and this girl slowly limped across the road with her family and boarded the bus. Her mom was carrying the obviously brand new-born baby. She said she can’t imagine having to ride a dirty, bumpy, smelly bus packed with people home just after giving birth.

(This picture isn't mine, but imagine mudholes, rain, and more garbage)

After the long trip we arrived at the Masaya bus terminal. “Bus terminal” = Muddy garbage-filled pit of hell. We had no idea where we were because the owner at our hotel told us that the bus terminal was right next to the market. Well it technically was, but it was the local market not the art market. This place was insane. Narrow, muddy and trash-filled aisles filled with everything you can think of. Bras, oranges, flowers, shoes, chickens, beans, rice, toys, deodorant. Whatever. We stuck out like white giants. It was a literal maze and it took us forever just to find the street which was also muddy and trash-filled. In hindsight it was actually pretty cool and I wish I would have got more pictures or video or something to show you just how crazy it was. The pictures I got really do not do it any justice. Just at the time we were not prepared and we were lost so we were pretty freaked out and I didn’t get many pictures. We eventually gave up on asking people where the Mercado Viejo (the name of the art market) was and got in a cab. He drove us there for $1. After several applications of hand sanitizer we had lunch in the art market along with some tasty cacao con leche; it is almost like a chocolate milkshake, but made with fresh cacao from local trees and mixed with milk. Its soooooo good. So while sitting there eating we see the shops start toting their stuff inside. Apparently they close at 3. DUMB! We took all that time getting there so we could have more time to look around and once again we only have a few minutes. I haggled on this painting and then they tried to rip me off so I didn’t get it. We bought a few other things quickly before they closed and then got in a cab back to Granada. This time the ride only took 15 minutes and cost $9 after tip. Totally worth it, even for Captain Thrifty.

Tonight we had dinner at the restaurant in our hotel. It was so great. The owner is a retired professional chef and he does all the cooking in the small restaurant. I had mackerel with saffron and lime and Coraleigh had chicken breast in guava-rum-chili sauce. We also had a Greek salad, fresh guava juice, a Toña (Nicaraguan beer), and this amazing chocolate terrine in mandarin orange sauce. All topped off with a glass of vintage port (real stuff from Portugal). Mmmmm. Only $28 for everything. :O)